B - This is the method I have used the last 50 years. Brush resin on the area of the hull being covered. Lay the dry felt into the resin and brush a bit more on the top, and roll the resin in with the resin roller. Again, work from the center towards the ends and edges. The aerator blades of the roller insure 100% saturation, thus no bubbles or voids, and also regulate the ration of resin to felt. The roller is also best for working down any puckers in the felt, like around the radius of the stem. If this is the only glassing job you foresee, just brush stipple. If you plan on doing other fiberglass projects, get a resin aerator roller. If you can get one with a metal roller, so much the better. Any epoxy residue may then be burned off with a torch. I have one roller I’ve used for 40 years.
7. Shake some talcum powder on your hands and rub the gloves together. You can now handle other surfaces without spreading sticky resin all over the place. Take paper towel or toilet paper and wipe around the edge of the masking tape to remove any excess or runny residual resin. (Don’t use any paper product after the resin starts to get tacky.) Occasionally touch the resin to see when it is starting to cure. As soon as it reaches a point where it won’t run, remove the paper or plastic skirt we put around the work area to protect the hull. Then remove the masking tape. Never allow the resin to cure with the masking tape still in place. You’ll hate yourself forever. Then, wet a rag with acetone and wipe around the edge of the resin area. This will remove the Magic Marker we used, insure there is no excess resin waiting to run as soon as we turn our backs, and feather the edge so there’s no tape edge in the finished job. Clean all tools with acetone.
8. When the resin in set to a jelly-like state, cut off numerous 12-18” strips of cellophane strapping tape and hang them nearby, like on the edge of the gunwale. Turn under just enough of both ends of the tape to leave a tab you can grab to remove the tape later. Now, holding the tape centered over and perpendicular to the stem, make contact with the center of the tape, and then pull down on both sides while securing the tape to the hull. Continue adding the other strips of tape, overlapping half of the previous strip, and continue until the entire skid plate is covered. You’re done.
9. When the hull epoxy is completely cured, remove the tape. Epoxy will not adhere to the cellophane. The tape further insures total saturation, but more importantly, will cause the epoxy to cure with a gelcoat-smooth finish.